Spain’s favorite festive barnacle threatened by climate change

STORY: These fishermen from Spain’s treacherous “Death Coast” are braving crashing waves to harvest a prized Christmas food: the gooseneck barnacle.

But the future of the delicacy is now under threat.

Rising sea temperatures, driven by climate change, are wreaking havoc on barnacle habitats – they rely on icy waters to thrive.

“A decade ago, there were double or triple the number of barnacles,” says Israel Martinez, an auctioneer at the local fish market.

Known for their unique flavor and the peril involved in gathering them, the crustaceans have long been treasured by Spaniards.

Despite state regulations, their decline is also being exacerbated by illegal fishing. The practice has surged because of the barnacle’s high market value.

During the holiday season, gooseneck barnacles can fetch up to $208 for 2.2 pounds.

Thirty-six-year-old Roberto Vidal began picking barnacles aged 16.

“The percebeiro trade on the Costa da Morte is dying. This is due to climate change, absurd laws, illegal fishing and a lack of workers.”

His hometown of Corme once had between 100 and 200 percebeiros.

Now, about 30 remain.

As the number of barnacle pickers dwindles and their harvest declines, licensed pickers are calling for greater enforcement to deter poachers, safeguard their livelihoods and protect the future of the national delicacy.